Christmas is coming and the goose is getting fat, so what better time than now to cosy up to the fire and watch your favourite bodice- ripping costume dramas. So in the spirit of bodice-ripping research I have carefully selected 10 of my favourites. I dare say apart from the historical costume dramas, there is a running theme in the leading ladies I have chosen who have worn corsets in that they are usually harlots or showgirls, never weeping willows and in the end generally get the MAN!

I think the first time I truly fell in love with the corset was when I set my eyes on Vivien Leigh in Gone with the Wind, and arguably one of the most famous corset lacing scenes of all time, not least because of Scarlett O' Hara's fiery nature and her turbulent love affair with Rhett Butler. 

Quote: "Fiddle-dee-dee! War, war, war; this war talk's spoiling all the fun at every party this spring. I get so bored I could scream." 

The Corset: Vivien Leigh had a 16" waist in this underbust corset which was worn under a fabulous party gown.

Film survival kit: The film is nearly 4 hours long, so you will need plenty of wood for the fire, PJs, Gin & Tonic and southern fried chicken (finger lickin' good).

Another lady who wears it well is Elizabeth Shue in Leaving Las Vegas.

Quote: "You go back to your hotel and I'll go back to my glamorous life of being alone".

The Corset: Elizabeth Shue is stunning in Leaving Las Vegas. Her corsets are inspired by the 17th century that flatten and push up the bust for maximun cleavage. 

Film survival kit: Stay away from the Gin. You will need tissues. This is a weepy.  

I can't really talk corsets or leading ladies and not mention Nicole Kidman and the musical Moulin Rouge.

Quote: "You're going to be bad for business. I can tell."

The corset: Nicole wore several memorable outfits in Moulin Rouge, but she really pulls off this classic black overbust with her long red maine and decolletage. Absolutely stunning!!

Film survival kit: In keeping with the french theme you may want a nice bottle of sancerre and some stinky cheese. You may also need tissues for tears and drool, we like Ewan McGregor he's very cute.

When I started thinking about this blog I wanted to choose actresses and films that inspired me. There is no one as inspiring or as beautiful as Cate Blanchett plus she was once quoted as saying “I’m one of those strange beasts who really likes a corset.” She does costume and drama like no other, so it is no great surprise Elizabeth I got an oscar for best costume and Cate a golden globe for her portrayal of Lizzie.

Quote: "I have no desire to make windows into men's souls. I simply ask, can any man, in truth, serve two masters, and be faithful to both."

The corset: The Renaissance was a period of severe tight lacing into cone shaped bodices worn with farthingales (petticoats) that made them stand out in a conical shape. This one tightens and flattens the bust but lies quite high on the neckline, with sleeves and a large collar covering the shoulders and preserving ones modesty.  

Film survival guide: A banquet of stuffed birds, a spit roast, 4 and 20 blackbirds baked in a pie and a yard of ale. That should keep you quiet for the duration of this film!! 

Not everyone's cup of tea but I do love the musical Sweeney Todd, and Helena Bonham Carter certainly knows how to showcase the corset whether on screen or walking down the red carpet. 

Quote: "Mrs. Mooney has a pie shop, Does a business, but I noticed something weird: Lately all her neighbor's cats have disappeared. Have to hand it to her, What I calls Enterprise Popping pussies into pies. Wouldn't do in my shop; Just the thought of it's enough to make you sick. And I'm telling you, them pussycats is quick." 

The corset: Mrs Lovett wears corsets throughout this film, but as times is hard doesn't have many sunday dresses as such but this is her dressy corset. It's a duchess silk base fabric with black lace overlay (lovely combination), and appears to have bones throughout the front panel on the outside. This would flatten the bosom and push it up. The additional sleeves are really beautiful especially with the lace gloves. 

Film survival guide: If you are brave then I suggest pasties or sausage rolls and a very large bloody mary! 

Below is Kate Winslet in Quills. I have chosen this one because it's really beautiful and I love the contrast of materials worn with it; silk corset, cotton under shirt and mohair cardi. It shows how versatile the corset can be, and with a bit of imagination how easy it is to dress it up or down.

Quote: "His greatest conquest was a woman six decades his senior, and a dozen years deceased. He made love with such vigor that it dislodged her bones, and yet he afforded her the highest compliment he afforded any woman." 

The Corset: During the 18th Century corsets began to become longer on the centre front and down over the hips. To begin with the panels fanned out at the bottom to allow for movement in the hips. They were laced up at the back or at the front. I really love the amount of stitching and boning on the outside front panel. This is design engineering at it's best!

Film Survival Guide: Turn the heat down, and stay away from hormone inducing foods such as red wine and chocolate or throw caution to the wind be naughty and have it all. If you are single don't DUI (dial under the influence).

Keeping in with the steamy french theme Dangerous Liaisons is an absolute classic. 

Quote: "I'm sorry to say this, but, those who are most worthy of love are never made happy by it".

The corset: This film is so full of corsets and bodice ripping action you'll be spoiled for choice.

Film survival guide: Red wine and chocolate

I couldn't talk corsets without discussing Marie Antoinette who was undoubtedly the most fashion conscious corset wearer of her time. This won the academy award for best costume. 

Quote: "Well, I certainly have nothing to say to her. And why should I approve of his cavorting with a harlot?" 

The corset: A visual feast from start to finish. This really makes me want to design costumes for film. A lot of these corsets were made with embroidered silks as were fashionable during the period. Beautiful fabrics and colour combinations throughout. 

Film survival guide: You may not need one, if you can bear to take your eyes away from the screen, you know best! 

Sophia Loren in the Millionairess

Quote: "You're not a man, you're an Englishman!"

The corset: With a waist to die for Sophia Loren does much justice to the corset in this sexy scene. The pearls, the hat, the gloves and stockings - oh la la

Film survival guide: Whatever your movie night pleasure, make it Italian whether it's sweet or savoury you'll be spoiled for choice.

Finally, I couldn't talk hollywood glamour, corsets and ooh la la without Marilyn Monroe and Gentlemen Prefer Blondes

Quote: "You know I think you're the only girl in the world who can stand on a stage with a spotlight in her eye and still see a diamond inside a man's pocket."

The corset: I love this! The black and gold combination with flowers bursting across the bustline make it a work of art. Very showgirl indeed!  

Film survival guide: Just be a glamour puss, diamonds, champagne and decadence - it's a sin not to show this lady some respect! 

This week I went to see "The House of Annie Lennox" exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Annie Lennox is a lady who has always inspired me with her music, style, and her political stance. Like me she is a singer, a celt, and living in North London. So in my fantasy world I'd like to think, kindred spirits. 

The collection of costumes and personal memorabilia is an insight into what drives her to make decisions on her music videos (are we still calling them that), and the stories behind them. The costume I was inspired by the most was the corset she wore in the video for "No More I Love You's". A beautiful silk lilac bodice with velvet flower buds bursting across the bust line. How very Moulin Rouge! 







All of this got me thinking about costumes and the different disciplines of being a costume designer. I have just been commissioned to make costumes for a web series called The Bloody Mary Show, which is a comedy series based on the legend of Bloody Mary. I have three ladies to dress, each one of them a totally different character, style and shape. It's been a long time since I made costumes. As an amateur dramatic actress I not only played the leading lady and usually the tart with the heart; Nancy in Oliver and Rizzo in Grease, but also designed and made my own costumes, mainly out of vanity and fear that I would be dressed in some hession cloth that made me itchy and scratchy as opposed to on set siren! I perish the thought. I remember one particular rehearsal of Oliver, where Bill Sykes had just slapped me across the face, and I was lying in the gutter, tears streaming down my face belting out with gusto "As Long As He Needs Me" and someone from the wings piping up "have you got the baskets ready for the who will buy scene?" I suddenly realised I couldn't be in two places at one time - tears or not! 

The 7 steps for highly effective costume making:

1. Leave the technical stuff behind, this is mostly a creative process.
   
2. Day 1 on set - the costume you have spent time stitching, pressing and making beautiful is likely to take a turn for the worse, particularly in the case of the Bloody Mary show. There WILL be blood, sweat, tears and slashing - I've adopted the LET IT GO mantra. 
   
3. Nothing that won't be seen needs to be perfectly finished, so, when time is limited you can wing it on the inside as long as the outside looks the part.
4. The actors need to be comfortable in what they are wearing, they need to feel good about it. Otherwise what's the point? 
5. Leave a little extra room on all of the seams just incase the actor / actress needs to kamikaze, plie, sing a seventh octave, have a baby or have sex (in theatre/film this happens a lot in clothes).    
6. There are limited budgets, so deal with it.
7. The film / series may be a big hit, the leading lady may get an oscar nomination and you may get the opportunity to dress her for that red carpet moment and NONE of the above will matter happy days! 

This is mid construction and still needs trimmings and final touches.

Needs final fitting and tweaks. 

Finally, every good savage blog finishes with a story about cake. The V&A is not just my favourite museum but also my favourite stop off for lunch. Inspirational stuff followed by a nice mouthful of the earl, scones, jam and clotted cream in the most amazing tea house in London. I was lucky enough to follow that by getting my kit off and paddling in the water feature outside in the courtyard during our Indian Summer - Some like it HOT HOT HOT

Marilyn Monroe in Some Like it Hot - one of my all time favourite films! I often wonder how the costume designer got away with it. 

Mistress Savage xx